["Nor'-West Notes", The Western Mail (Perth, WA), Saturday 08 January 1910, page 18]
NOR'-WEST NOTES.
STEADY PROGRESSION.
GREAT EXPANSION OF PASTORAL INDUSTRY.
(By J.T.)
Anywhere north of 30deg. srouth is decidedly tropical just now. At Carnarvon, Onslow, Cossack, Port Hedland, Broome, Derby and Wyndham, the shade temperature ranges quite high enough, and, inland, men are too tired to take notice of thermometers or anything else that reminds them of the dreadful heat, and grimly await the passing of summer. Naturally, the steamers from the Nor'-West are crowded with pearlers, pastoralists, and miners who can get down to civilisation and a cooler climate. Never before has there been such a steady inflow from our northern ports, and, almost without exception, they sing a song of hope.
From Eucla to Wyndham the season for pastoralists has been one of the best on record, the price of wool, pearshell, and other products has been good, and the year now commencing is full of happy augury. A large area of country erroneously supposed to be desert has been taken up for postoral purposes, and is being stocked with well-bred sheep and cattle--the water difficulty being overcome by artesian bores, some of which have tapped a practically unlimited supply at depths varying from 500 to 3,00o feet. Comparing the map of North-Western Australia of 1890 with that of 1910, the progress is something remarkable, and it and it is more than probable that with the construction of the trans-Australian railway another vast pastoral province will be added to the State in the southern district. Parochial opponents of the project have sneeringly alluded to it as a desert railway, but there is some reason to believe that artesian bores will be equally successful in tapping a copious supply as those in the northern districts. It may not be generally known that fat sheep were travelled overland fron the South Australian border to the Coolgardie fields as far back as 16 years ago. So little was known of pastoral settlement by the South Australian Government at such a recent date that surveyors sent out by the Lands Department were hugely surprised to find sheep runs with stone homesteads, wool sheds, kitchen gardens, and all the surroundings of old-established stations, but the existence of which was absolutely unknown in Adelaide official circles. And yet at that time South Australian mutton was bringing top prices at Coolgardie from stations founded 20 years previously.
Carnarvon,
chief port of the Gascoyne district, is a chronic sufferer from severe inundations, caused by the overflow of the river, year after year. The soil is exceedingly fertile, and splendid vegetables arc grown at Yankee Town, about a couple of miles distant. Nice, trimly-kept gardens surround many of the residences, and there is an air of stability and prosperity about the town, amply confirmed by the port and customs returns. The ravages of the river, which has its source in the far distant Robinson Ranges, and beyond Peak Hill, are accountable for much loss of property, and a heavy expenditure of State and municipal funds is necessary to keep the thoroughfares in passable condition. Heavy thunderstorms several hundred miles away, occasionally convert the dry river bed into a broad, foaming torrent, and by the time the waters reach the delta at Carnarvon, widespread damage is caused. The Harbour and Lights Department has recognised the growing importance of the district by improving the jetty and railway accommodation, and also by providing a more powerful leading light for the guidance of vessels using the port. At one time a trolly, fitted up with mainsail and jib, was utilised for the conveyance of mails and a limited number of passengers between the town and steamers. In a strong south-westerly breeze the novel craft literally flew before the wind, and several sensational capsizes took place, but now there is a substantially constructed railway, with light locomotive and passenger cars. There are, however, only a couple of small cars, which are totally inadequate for the traffic, for when a steamer is at the port the entire populace rush off to see her. Half a dozen cars at least could be profitably utilised, and until they are provided Carnarvon people will have a grievance.
Onslow,
some 250 miles further north, is the port of the Ashburton, and during the wool season is a very busy little town. Already over 6,000 bales have been shipped this season and more wool is awaiting the steamers, but the arrangements for handling cargo of all kinds are simply exasperating. The port is of such a nature that steamers cannot approach within a couple of miles of the shore, so that the employment of lighters is necessary. Willy-willies are of unpleasantly frequent occurrence, and on a recent occasion, all the available lighters were blown ashore and landed, among the mangroves. ' j and landed, among the -mangroves. The town of Onslow is 4¼ miles from the jetty, and the only approach is over a flimsily constructed tramline, sections of which are washed or blown away after every big blow. There is no locomotive engine, all the hauling having to be done by horses, the employment of which, in such a hot climate, with myriads of sandflies and other stinging insects, is downright cruelty to animals. There is no water supply for domestic purposes, so that but for tanks to catch rainwater, Onslow would fare very badly. The town is without roads or footpaths, and persons wishing to call at the post office, custom bouse, doctor's residence, or any other place, have to wade through mud and slush after rainfall, and plough ankle deep i through sand and dust in summer--and it is nearly always summer at Onslow. The town is sadly neglected by Government, and presents a marked contrast to Roebourne, where native prisoners are usefully employed in public works, such as road-making, tree planting, street watering, and scavenging. The Roads Board, with the best intentions, is powerless, as funds are scarce, but if some of the surplus prisoners could be drafted from Roebourne or other contiguous places, some highly necessary improvements could be effected. By damming the Ashburton River five or six miles from its mouth, the sea water could be checked and a pure supply obtained for the town, and also for irrigation purposes. The soil for miles inland is of magnificent quality-20 to 30 feet of fine rich loam, capable of the most intense culture, and Government ought to make an early movement in the direction of demonstrating its remarkable fertility. Captain Parkes and two or three other pearlers make Onslow their headquarters, and a considerable quantity of lead ore is now being received for shipment from places 60 or 70 miles inland. The Ashburton is a fine pastoral district, sheep and cattle as well as horses thriving splendidly, but, owing to the wretched shipping facilities, all stock for shipment has to be travelled to Carnarvon, 250 miles couth, or to Point Sampson, nearly 200 miles northward. The difficulty, or most of it, could be surmounted by Government putting down a substantial tram or railway line and equipping it with a locomotive eugine, as at Carnarvon. A steam lighter of shallow draught could be profitably employed to connect with the jetty, and then Onslow would speedily improve in every way.
Point Sampson
was provided with a substantial jetty on a large scale many years ago, but until quite recently it was hardly ever used. Dry rot and the all-devouring teredo were playing sad havoc with the structure, and it appeared os though it would completely collapse in the near future. Point Sampson is about 12 miles from Roebourne, and the jetty has the advantage of deep water even at low tide. Vessels such as the Charon, Gorgon, and Koombana can go alongside at any time, although in a strong blow it would be prudent to stand out to tea. Cossack has always been the landing place for Roebourne, but, it is situated up a tidal creek and cannot be approached except by boats of very light draught. As at Onslow, steamers have to discharge cargo and passengers into lighters, materially increasing tho cost of everything connected with the port, besides leading to vexatious delays and damage to goods. Recently it was decided to substitute Point Sampson for Cossack, and to practically wipe out the latter place as a seaport. A new townsite has been surveyed, and holders of allotments at Cossack will have precedence in the selection and purchase of business or other sites, but the question of water supply and other matters will have to be settled before Point Sampson will be a desirable place of residence. The new town will be delightfully situated, pretty stretches of sandy beach alternating with jutting rocks and charming bays. Cool sea breezes blow nearly all the year round. Fish is plentiful, and oysters can be obtained for the collecting. A little way inland there are many varieties of wildflowers, prominent among them being brilliant patches of Sturt's desert pea. A horse tram is already running between Point Sampson and Roebourne--one of the best laid-out and cleanest towns in the Nor'-West. The employment of native prisoners for road-making and other public works bas been attended with happy results, and, as previously mentioned, the example set by Roebourne might be followed with advantage by other towns with wide, dusty thoroughfares but limited revenue.
